The first issue of Paris-based Desserts Magazine is devoted to the wondrous macaron. Not to be confused with the leaden coconut macaroon, this delectable filled cookie is found all over Paris in a variety of flavors.
People travel all over the world to sample Laduree's macarons (various locations), which are offered in a rainbow of 13 permanent and 6 seasonal flavors. The salted butter caramel is an intense taste sensation, and the chocolate amer melts in one's mouth. A box of six or eight makes a delightful gift (I know, because my recipients were absolutely delighted)!
Chocophiles will be enamored of the macarons of chocolatier Jean Paul-Hevin (various locations). He features unique chocolate combinations like chocolate-passionfruit, chocolate-pistachio and chocolate-tarragon. Chocolate-cardamom macarons are included in the gift boxes near the entrance of La Grande Epicerie du Bon Marche (38, Rue Sèvres, Paris - +33 (01) 42-22-10-12).
Those who crave something more exotic will appreciate the the brightly colored macarons of Sadaharu Aoki (various locations). In addition to offering traditional French flavors, Aoki also serves up matcha, ume plum, hojicha, and black sesame macarons.
(Note: Dessert Magazine includes recipes for Aoki's matcha macaron and Hevin's chocolate macaron. If you can't find a copy, just E-mail me!)
Monday, August 10, 2009
Sunday, August 09, 2009
Japanese Chefs in Paris
Although it's very difficult to find good Japanese food in Paris, Japanese chefs are turning out stellar French food in the city. Tateru Yoshino is the chef at the vaunted Stella Maris (4 rue Arsène-Houssaye, +33 (01) 42-89-16-22), and I just had a delightful lunch at Chef Hide Kobayashi's eponymous Le Hide (10 rue du General Lanzerac, +33 (01) 45-74-15-81). The "menu a midi," which includes appetizer, main course and dessert, was only 26 euros, and featured such dishes as a tartine of escargots appetizer, steak prepared with sel de Guerande for a main, and desserts like chocolate millefeuille and orange creme brulee. I chose a layered shrimp salad with shredded endives and a kicky avocado vinaigrette for an appetizer; the shrimps were plentiful, plump and sweet. Next were a couple of sturdy monkfish medallions on a bed of penne in a light, parsleyed cream sauce; a crisp potato gaufrette lay atop the hearty fish, adding some nice texture. My dessert, the Mont-Blanc (often found at Japanese pastry shops) was another study in layers of flavor. Buttery pound cake was the base for a dense chestnut mousse, which was balanced by a sweet, light homemade vanilla ice cream scoop on top.
After all of this, another dessert may have been a strange objective, but I set about finding Sadaharu Aoki's patisseries. I ended up at the northwestern outskirts of Paris before giving up on that particular location, then took the metro all the way to the Les Gobelins stop. Finally, success! Jars of green-tea milk jam, a paintbox of beautiful macarons in traditional and Japanese flavors (matcha, black sesame, even ume), and scrumptious eclairs greeted me. The neon-green matcha eclair was amazing - the cream oozing out of the rich pastry was mild and sweet, but with an unforgettable herbal aftertaste. The next day, still thinking about that unique taste, I trekked over to the gourmet cave at Galeries Lafayette - but that location was all out of eclairs.
After all of this, another dessert may have been a strange objective, but I set about finding Sadaharu Aoki's patisseries. I ended up at the northwestern outskirts of Paris before giving up on that particular location, then took the metro all the way to the Les Gobelins stop. Finally, success! Jars of green-tea milk jam, a paintbox of beautiful macarons in traditional and Japanese flavors (matcha, black sesame, even ume), and scrumptious eclairs greeted me. The neon-green matcha eclair was amazing - the cream oozing out of the rich pastry was mild and sweet, but with an unforgettable herbal aftertaste. The next day, still thinking about that unique taste, I trekked over to the gourmet cave at Galeries Lafayette - but that location was all out of eclairs.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Je Me Souviens - Le Chocolat
Locally produced ingredients make Quebec City a fascinating place to eat chocolate. Wild blueberries, honey, and maple syrup (of course) find their way into many of the city's confections.
At Praline & Chocolat, one of the food kiosks in the endless Marché du Vieux-Port (7874 Av. Royale, 418-978-0528), you'll find chocolates made with honey from the Musee de L'Abeille (Bee Museum)., which is a short trip outside the city. (The kiosk also sells lovely pastries and dark-chocolate-bottomed meringues.)
Les Délices de l’Érable, or Maple Delights (1044, rue St-Jean, 418-692-3245) serves up treats like maple brownies and chocolate royale maple mousse. Customers are allowed to taste and compare all the different bottled maple syrups. The ubiquitous syrup, which was originally discovered by the Algonquins, also turns up in the chocolate-maple bars at Cupidon Chocolatier (Chateau Frontenac Hotel Shops, 1 des Carrieres, 418-692-3340). Cupidon also sells wild blueberry chocolate bars.
No chocoholic's trip to Quebec City is complete without a trip to the Choco-Musée Érico. This delightful boutique is home to a small museum where you'll learn lots of chocolate trivia (did you know that early chocolate apprentices were required to carve their own molds?). At the adjacent store, order a warm chocolate-chip cookie, some chocolat chaud, and truffles made with pure maple butter or Quebec apple ice wine.
Finally, if you're interested in what Québécois pastry chefs can do with chocolate, make sure to visit the highly regarded Le Saint-Amour restaurant (48 rue Sainte-Ursule, 418-694-0667). The Distinction dessert, which features six delectable mini-creations (including dark chocolate creme brulee), will bring your vacation to a sufficiently chocolaty close.
At Praline & Chocolat, one of the food kiosks in the endless Marché du Vieux-Port (7874 Av. Royale, 418-978-0528), you'll find chocolates made with honey from the Musee de L'Abeille (Bee Museum)., which is a short trip outside the city. (The kiosk also sells lovely pastries and dark-chocolate-bottomed meringues.)
Les Délices de l’Érable, or Maple Delights (1044, rue St-Jean, 418-692-3245) serves up treats like maple brownies and chocolate royale maple mousse. Customers are allowed to taste and compare all the different bottled maple syrups. The ubiquitous syrup, which was originally discovered by the Algonquins, also turns up in the chocolate-maple bars at Cupidon Chocolatier (Chateau Frontenac Hotel Shops, 1 des Carrieres, 418-692-3340). Cupidon also sells wild blueberry chocolate bars.
No chocoholic's trip to Quebec City is complete without a trip to the Choco-Musée Érico. This delightful boutique is home to a small museum where you'll learn lots of chocolate trivia (did you know that early chocolate apprentices were required to carve their own molds?). At the adjacent store, order a warm chocolate-chip cookie, some chocolat chaud, and truffles made with pure maple butter or Quebec apple ice wine.
Finally, if you're interested in what Québécois pastry chefs can do with chocolate, make sure to visit the highly regarded Le Saint-Amour restaurant (48 rue Sainte-Ursule, 418-694-0667). The Distinction dessert, which features six delectable mini-creations (including dark chocolate creme brulee), will bring your vacation to a sufficiently chocolaty close.
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